Community Interest – September 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine “Community Interest” September 2007.

Sauvignon Blanc
By Elisabeth Frater

Napa-grown Sauvignon Blanc is a delightful curiosity mainly because local winemakers have leapt over the traditional herbal and grassy boundaries. Instead, we have wines with a wide flavor and aroma spectrum evoking Meyer lemon, passion fruit, honeysuckle, stone fruit and lemongrass. What you get on your palate is excitingly unpredictable. The winemaker might decide to use oak barrels, or stainless steel, or add stone fruit flavors by adding Semillon-a common blending grape-or leave a hint of residual sugar. What seems to make or break this wine is a combination of the grape grower’s and the winemaker’s ability to coax the grape’s unique potential.

Bob Broman, winemaker at Broman Cellars says that from a stylistic perspective, the Napa Valley is a perfect place to grow and make Sauvignon Blanc. “There is a great diversity of growing conditions from the north near Calistoga to Carneros in the south, which produce very different characteristics while maintaining a great acid/pH balance,” he says.

It doesn’t hurt that Mother Nature blesses us. “The Mediterranean climate of Napa Valley with its warm days and cool nights provides the perfect conditions for Sauvignon Blanc,” says Laurie Claudon, the proprietor of Clark-Claudon Vineyards. “The day time heat brings out the ripe fruit characteristics while the cool nights allow the maintenance of adequate acid levels,” she points out.

The grape’s growing site also lends a noticeable impact, and must be situated so that the fruit can fully ripen. At J. Lohr Winery, Sauvignon Blanc is grown in a north St. Helena vineyard bordered by the Napa River. Steve Lohr says Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc is special because of a warm climate, abundant winter rainfall, and deep, well-drained soils.

“Toward the southern and cooler end of Napa Valley, Sauvignon Blanc tends to display a slightly broader array of herbal components than its mid and upper valley counterparts,” says Lohr. “But Napa Sauvignon Blanc in general will be less grassy and aggressively herbaceous than most New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs.”

Winemakers are also responding to consumer preferences. “In recent years, the trend has been to reduce the amount of oak exposure, thereby allowing Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs to fully express their fresh, clean fruit-based with herbal top note components,” says Lohr. Accordingly, the J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is all about freshness, elegance and sublime fruit flavors says Lohr. At Clark-Claudon Vineyards, the Wild Iris Sauvignon Blanc definitely falls into the warm climate, stainless steel fermented, lushly aromatic, fruit forward, full mouth feel style says Claudon.

Broman’s wine is modeled after those from Sancerre with clean, bright fruit and great acidity. He eschews oak or malolactic fermentation preferring fresh and balanced wine. The growing conditions in Rutherford allow him to get fuller, tropical characteristics than you would find in most Sancerres, he says.

David DeSante, of DeSante Wines bases his wine on the farmhouse styled wines of the Loire Valley. “Holding to the tradition in the Loire, this wine has a relatively low alcohol (12.7%) and a crisp, fresh palate. The difference from the New Zealand model of Sauvignon Blanc is that the Old Vine is unfined and unfiltered and contains some yeast and lees. This very slightly cloudy wine benefits from the incorporation of lees to give it a pleasing roundness on the palate that is not derived from sugar or alcohol,” says DeSante.

With so many choices, it seems best to let your palate be the guide.

The wines we tasted are:

1. Broman Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($16) Cold fermented in a small stainless steel tank with no malolactic fermentation or barrel aging results in a vibrant nose, Meyer lemon, honeysuckle flavors and a crisp citrus finish. (www.bromancellars.com)

2. Clark-Claudon Vineyards; Napa Valley Wild Iris Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($26) Pretty herbal notes on the nose, balanced tropical flavors, layered with toasty, burnt sugar. (www.clarkclaudon.com)

3. DeSante Wines Napa Valley Old Vine Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($22) Tangy lemon, peach and nectarine flavors, mineral and lemon crème finish. (www.desantewines.com/)

4. Groth Vineyards & Winery Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($18) Delicate and focused citrus nose, lemon and nectarine with hints of lime on the finish from a blend of Sauvignon and Semillion. (www.grothwines.com)

5. Honig Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($13) Loire style with crisp, grapefruit and tropical flavors resulting in a wonderful mouthfeel. (www.honigwine.com)

6. J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines Napa Valley Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($24) (www.jlohr.com) Vibrant aromas of grapefruit and citrus flavors mingle with lively flavors of gooseberry, grapefruit, and kiwifruit.

7. Ladera Howell Mountain Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($23) Vibrant citrus, grapefruit rind melon and zest on the finish. (www.laderavineyards.com)

8. Raymond Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Reserve 2006 ($14) Fruit-forward with pineapple, lemon and bright citrus aromas, with a fresh-cut grass undertone. (www.raymondwine.com)

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Eco-Touring – September 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine “Eco-Touring” September 2007.

Ramblin’ On by the Napa Nomad, Eco-excursions in the Napa Valley
Above It All – Oakville Grade
By Arvis Northrop

There are many fantastic views to behold in the Napa Valley in such places as Skyline Park and Westwood Hills Park in Napa. Getting to them, for me, would be a “real” hike with boots, proper clothing, water bottles, even a sturdy walking stick. But sometimes I just want to take off on foot to explore something nearby that only requires my usual sneakers or sturdy sandals, with a picturesque and comfortable destination in mind and the availability of good food. So, I came up with this idea to walk up the Oakville Grade, seeking a fantastic view with the added bonus of a lovely picnic area nearby. I recruited my good friend Renee to join me. Renee is mostly an “indoor girl” but with a healthy dose of “trooper,” so she was happy to try out this excursion.

We took the #10 Vine bus from Napa, up Highway 29 and got off at the Oakville Grocery store. We had small backpacks and purchased a sandwich to share (they have large, delicious sandwiches), some potato salad and an amazing chocolate-coated peanut butter cookie; after all, we would need our strength. Oakville Grocery is maybe half a block north of the start of the Oakville Grade road. At a safe break in the traffic we scurried across Highway 29 to begin our ascent to the view. At the corner is Taqueria La Vaca, a Mexican restaurant with spacious outdoor dining and a wonderful dancing cow in the middle of the lawn. Well, the cow is a statue, not actually dancing. She resembles Marilyn Monroe quite a bit, from the movie “Seven Year Itch,” with the billowing white dress and coy expression. It’s worth a stop in itself.

The walk up Oakville Grade to a panoramic valley view is about 1.5 miles. You could bring a pedometer or simply use my landmarks. There are so many intriguing, historical sites in the Napa Valley. On the valley floor on the south side of the road is Far Niente Winery. Tucked way into the vineyards, Far Niente Winery was founded in 1885 and there’s a wonderful story of its history on their website www.farniente.com. On the other side of the road is the quaint St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church, a very pretty photo opportunity. They hold Sunday services at 8:00 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

We continued along the road, which is a gentle walk surrounded by vineyards. As the grade becomes steeper, there is a sign to the right announcing the Carmelite House of Prayer. This wooded paved road leads to the magnificent Carmelite Monastery. In 1955 the three founders of this Northern California monastery took possession of the Doak Mansion, which was built in 1921. If you have the time, I recommend this detour to see the monastery and its view from the grounds. John McLaren, designer of Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, originally landscaped the grounds and they are open to the public to explore. Currently the Monastery has contact information and a schedule of their masses, which are open to the public, on the web at www.ocdwest.org/oakville.html.

From this point we started our more vigorous climb, being mindful of occasional vehicles, and staying close to the side of the road. Up ahead, on the left was our picnic destination, Diamond Oaks Winery. It is truly an oasis on the hillside. But, hold on just a bit longer; before entering Diamond Oaks I encourage you to go just .3 of a mile farther. Look for two turnouts in the road, one on each side. Cross to the south side turnout and look east at a view of the Oakville appellation.

Oakville became a burgeoning wine making region in the mid 1800s and is known worldwide for distinctive Cabernet grapes. To gaze over the vineyards and hillsides of the Napa Valley is a calming experience, a beauty to behold. You can enjoy this walk in spring and then again in fall to compare the views. By June the valley is full, lush and green; a vibrant green carpet on the valley floor. Return in October to see Nature’s way of dying in brilliant style. The vines don’t fade away, but are dressed in the colors of jewels: amber, ruby, amethyst and garnet.

Now you’re ready for your picnic. Visit the winery, bring your food, buy a refreshing bottle of wine and sit at a table in their beautiful setting overlooking the Oakville appellation of the valley. You can call ahead to reserve a table, a great idea if you’re sightseeing with guests and doing the wine-tasting thing. This winery is a little off of the beaten path, not crowded and the atmosphere is casual and friendly. The grounds are woodsy with some areas providing expansive views. There’s more information about Diamond Oaks at www.diamond-oaks.com. For an alternative to the wine and picnic, start back down the easy Oakville Grade and treat yourself to the delicious food at Taqueria La Vaca.

My friend and I were quite pleased. We got good exercise, experienced nature, learned a little history and had good food and wine. It always helps to have a special reward for exercise. Getting back to Napa, or points south as far as Vallejo, you can catch the #10 Vine directly across the street from the Oakville Grocery. The #10 also continues north into Calistoga. For Vine routes and schedules go to www.nctpa.net/vine.cfm.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – September 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review September 2007

Small World Restaurant
By “The Elusive Epicurean”

Nestled amongst the swanky restaurants of downtown Napa is a place that reminds me of the many cafes that sustained me during my college years. I’m talking about unpretentious places serving up consistently good food, day after day, to hungry, budget- conscious hordes. Small World does just that, and with a heavy dose of character and charm that is appreciated by regulars such as this thrifty working girl.

Small World serves up Mediterranean and American classics for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus any cravings you might have in between. With a menu that spans not only every meal but the entire globe, I was forced to assemble a crack squad of Secret Agent Food Tasters to assist in getting the job done. We began with breakfast.

My favorite Small World breakfast is the Greek Omelet, with fresh mint, olives, tomatoes, and feta cheese ($6.25). A close second is the Vegetarian, with mushrooms, olives, tomatoes, zucchini and onion ($6.25). Either are perfect for helping me recuperate from my Friday night. Meanwhile, the downtown workaday crowd can enjoy breakfast on the fly with goodies like the Egg & Cheese Bagel ($3.99), the Scrambled Egg & Cheese Pita ($3.99), or the Breakfast Burrito stuffed with eggs, mushrooms, Polish sausage, and jack & cheddar cheese ($4.75).

Small World lunches are a regular thing for my Squad. Agent K favors the Grilled Chicken Salad: a whopping serving of grilled chicken over greens with sliced cabbage, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers and two dressings served on the side ($9.25). Agent L goes for Lamb Salad version (also $9.25), while Agent A likes the traditional Lamb Gyro ($6.75). Me? I’m a Falafel girl ($5.99).

For the less adventurous, or those simply not in the mood for Mediterranean, Small World has plenty of traditional American fare, such as Burgers (beef $4.50, veggie $4.99, or turkey $5.25), Fish & Chips ($5.85), and Onion Rings ($4.50). If you missed the county fair, don’t fret. Your opportunity to eat food on a stick has not passed you by. The humble Corn Dog ($1.99) sustains Agent J throughout the work week.

Hungry at 4 PM can be quite the conundrum: too late for lunch, too early for dinner, but just right for a quick snack from Small World. That’s when the Squad orders up fried Mozzarella Sticks ($3.99). When we’re feeling more healthful, we’ll opt for a side of Dolmas ($2.99), Hummus, ($4.50) or Baba Ghanoush ($4.50). Pesky errands getting you down? Perk up with a super fresh smoothie. My favorite, made with non-fat frozen yogurt, is the Hawaiian: pineapple, blackberries, banana and cran-raspberry juice ($3.25/20 oz).

If, unlike us, you don’t have to haul your meal back to the office, go ahead and order a beer, sit yourself down and do some people watching at Small World’s sidewalk café tables. You can work on your tan while you’re at it.

So, if your lunch date asks if Small World sounds good, don’t be overcome by visions of a Disney theme park experience. Just say yes, and know that you’re in for some good eats. And remember if corn dogs and falafel can live in harmony, world peace really is possible.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com