Restaurant Review – December 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review December 2007

Cook St. Helena
By “The Elusive Epicurean”

Not a holiday goes by that some relative doesn’t remark upon my love of cooking, and come to the inevitable conclusion that I should pursue a career as a professional chef.

I find this uproariously funny. For one, having lived with a slew of career foodies, and read my share of voyeuristic kitchen non-fiction (reference one Anthony Bourdain), I know this: Being a professional cook is hard work. This knowledge always leaves me looking at Aunt Bessie or Uncle Howard and thinking, “Are you daft?”

Further, Aunt Bessie and Uncle Howard have got it all wrong. I do not love cooking. I love eating. If the universe saw fit to give me a personal chef, I would not miss sautéing, mincing, or puréeing. But, since this person has yet to arrive, a demanding palate (and even more demanding budget) dictates that I cook. As chores go, cooking’s not so bad. It ranks far above ironing. And, I cook.

Thus, therefore, when I have a stunning meal, prepared by someone else, I am so very appreciative. Cook St. Helena always leaves me very, very appreciative. If you have not yet eaten there, go. If you have, but just happen to be hungry, go. If you think you might possibly be hungry at some point one day in the near or distant future, then schedule it. I command you.

Cook St. Helena’s small storefront on Main Street is easy to miss, so keep your eyes out for diners pacing the sidewalk waiting for a seat at what is clearly a local favorite. Enthusiastic greetings ping-pong around the room whenever a regular shows up, which is often.

It’s easy to see why Cook, is popular, (with its cozy, friendly French bistro feel). Wine bottles line the walls, and a marble-topped bar gives a diner-gone-luxe vibe while at the same time welcoming solo diners or those who want a sneak peek into the petite kitchen.

My companion, who shall be called Miss Guinness, began with the beet salad, composed of red and yellow beets, mache, ricotta salata and sherry vinegar ($9). Very simple, and very good. The soup was cream of tomato ($8), which I ordered without the least trepidation. I was in good hands: I was not reminded of that red and white can. The prospect of a daily dose of Cook’s soup had me momentarily considering relocation. It was that good.

Next, I chose the braised short ribs ($23), served with scallion whipped potatoes. Tender and flavorful, the ribs were the perfect winter comfort food. Cook’s pastas are all housemade. Miss Guinness could not resist the Handmade Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Cream ($16), also available with either marinara or sage brown butter. There was some debate over the sauce, but in the end she went with the gorgonzola cream, which, happily, was neither overwhelming nor heavy. The gnocchi themselves were light, not leaden, and I eagerly cleaned Miss Guinness’ plate after I finished everything on mine. But, not to worry, I still had room for a lovely Panne Cotta.

So, Dear Reader, if after all the tinseling and bedecking of this festive season, you dread the very thought of rummaging through your fridge, there is an answer: Cook St. Helena. Visions of sugar plums will dance in your head.

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Community Interest – December 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine “Community Interest” December 2007.

Affordable Housing: It’s Not What You Think

The housing market in Napa County is broken, says non-profit Housing California. Wages are not keeping pace with housing costs and the variety of affordable home choices is small.

As a result, key contributors to our local economy cannot even afford to rent homes. In 2006, A Napa County resident needed an income of $44,480 to afford a two-bedroom apartment—significantly more than tax preparers, preschool teachers and dispatchers earned, on average.

“According to the federal government, rent for a home or mortgage on a house is considered affordable if it costs no more than 30% of a person’s income,” says Kathleen Dreessen, Executive Director of Napa Valley Community Housing (NVCH), a private non-profit that develops, refurbishes and manages affordable workforce housing in Napa County. “But many people in our workforce earn little over the minimum wage. They end up spending 50% to 60% of their income on housing and often live in substandard and overcrowded conditions.”

This was the case with Cammy and John (names have been changed), who had to share a two-bedroom apartment with their six children. Arden, a single mother of three, could only afford a damp, cold apartment infested with cockroaches.

Both families eventually moved into NVCH properties and describe the changes as positive.

“It’s more comfortable and quiet here,” says Cammy. “Our children are healthier. They are able to study better for school.”

“Living in an affordable Napa Valley Community Housing apartment made the future brighter for my children,” says Arden. “The apartments are safe and attractive, the environment relaxing.”

NVCH was formed in 1996 through a merger of two smaller housing organizations, Housing Association for Napa Development, and Napa Valley Family homes.

“We have 30 years successful experience in building affordable workforce housing,” says Dreessen. “Our organization manages 440 rental units at 15 properties. We also have several properties in predevelopment stages.”

Dreessen states that one reason city planners welcome workforce housing built by NVCH is that the property is also managed by NVCH.

“We have on-site managers, which means the tenant rules are followed and the properties are well maintained. We have strict tenant rules, such as no car washing, no working on cars and no pets. Our sites have laundry facilities and community rooms.”

Over 1200 residents live in properties managed by Napa Valley Community Housing and 400 of these residents are children. Over 90% of the households have at least one working adult. NVCH has also developed affordable housing for seniors, people with special needs and farm workers.

One of the agency’s goals is to support residents in improving their lives to the point where they are able to afford market-rate rental housing or home ownership. NVCH staff makes a priority of linking residents to local education, health and job training services. This is done either by directing individual residents or families to appropriate programs within the community or by bringing services or educational opportunities to the apartment sites themselves, where many families can benefit at once. Through education, access to services and participation in positive activities, residents gain control over their lives and make changes in their circumstances that allow them to move out of poverty.

“The most successful part of what we do is our Family Empowerment Program,” says Dreessen. “Our Resident Services team connects families with physical and mental health services as well as training them to be leaders. We’ve had many individuals transform themselves from shy and retiring to leaders of tenant associations. In this way, they can solve conflicts and participate in solutions in their communities. One group at Napa Park Homes recently took on a recycling effort. Supervised by parents, children go door to door and collect recycling. They have earned over $100 in their fledgling enterprise, which they used to sponsor a pizza celebration.”
In one neighborhood where NVCH owns and manages two apartment complexes, drugs and gang activity used to be widespread. NVCH acquired the properties and staff worked to eliminate those problems. When a neighborhood house went on the market, NVCH purchased and refurbished the house into a neighborhood community center. Bilingual and bicultural leadership classes create a strong leadership component in the neighborhood. Classes, workshops and social activities contribute to the empowerment of the residents who live there.

“It’s about improving our tenants’ quality of life,” says Dreessen. “There is a misconception about our tenants. They are not living off the government, but are hard working, tax paying residents. Every year, we have about two-dozen residents pass their U.S. citizenship tests. Our properties aren’t the sort of ‘projects’ you see on television in urban settings. NVCH homes are attractive, well-built and well designed with many upscale elements.”

An 11-member Board of Directors, made up of successful business and community leaders, oversees NVCH. Staff consists of 33 full time and two part time employees.

What are NVCH’s funding sources?

“NVCH is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization that relies on a variety of funding sources,” says Dreessen. “We receive contributions from private individuals, businesses and foundations. We acquire loans from banks and from federal and state deferred loan programs to purchase land, cover new building development costs and apartment renovation expenses. Some properties also get investor dollars through a special tax credit program.”

Development projects range in cost from about $1 million for an apartment acquisition and rehabilitation to about $17 million for the construction of a new 100-unit family apartment complex. Because of the scarcity and cost of land in Napa, it is becoming more difficult for the agency to purchase property.

The organization accepts donations in any amount. All donations are deductible to the extent allowed by law. Gifts help demonstrate a broad base of support and will increase the agency’s ability to attract additional funding from foundations and private businesses. NVCH receives no government dollars for its agency operations.

“Each contribution to NVCH demonstrates the donor’s understanding of the need for affordable housing and their commitment to helping NVCH fill the need with quality projects and programs. NVCH accepts gifts of stock, gifts in kind, planned giving gifts, checks and cash. We hope community members and businesses see the need for quality workforce housing and support our efforts.”

Contributions can be mailed to Napa Valley Community Housing at Five Financial Plaza, Suite 200, Napa CA 94558, or credit card payments can be made directly to their website, www.nvch.org, under “Donations.” For additional information, visit the website or phone (707) 253-6140.

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Eco-Touring – December 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine “Eco-Touring” December 2007.

Wide Open Spaces
Ramblin’ On by the Napa Nomad, Eco-excursions in the Napa Valley
By Arvis Northrop

Sometimes I feel surrounded by traffic and noise. All the progress and construction going on in Napa! Maybe it’s good to just get away from it all, alone in wide open spaces to stretch our legs, our minds and perspectives. I know just the place to do this, out on the edge of the Carneros.

The Carneros is the largest of the Napa Valley wine growing regions and shared, as well, with Sonoma County. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are its most famous grapes. Others include Merlot and Syrah and it was the first region to be designated an appellation in 1983.

Beyond all that, literally beyond the southernmost edge of the vineyards is the Napa-Sonoma Marshes Wildlife Area. This area is a preserve for a delicate ecosystem of vegetation, water ways and wildlife. As noted on the Department of Fish and Game website, the area covers “over 13,000 acres of saltwater ponds, tidal marshes, and wetlands. Just north of San Pablo Bay, this area is made up of levees and sloughs. Many waterfowl species and shorebirds including the California clapper rail can be found here. Most of the area is accessible by boat only.” Thanks to the collaboration of Ducks Unlimited, Napa County, the Fish & Game Department, and the Carneros wineries, this area has been painstakingly preserved to provide a sanctuary for humans too. A friend of the Friends of the Napa River pointed out the area to me on a map. “Just drive out Buchli Station Road”, I was instructed. Buchli Station? There was a station; what sort of a station? An adventure was unfolding before me, a mini-road trip.

I carefully navigated the maze of roads through the Carneros region and finally turned left onto Buchli Station Road. I passed Bouchaine Winery on the right and continued for about a half mile until the road looked like it might end at a chain link fence; I kept on, having been told it was okay to continue. Past this point my car began to dip and rock in the road which was pitted with the widest, deepest pot holes I had ever encountered! I zigzagged slowly, crossed an abandoned train track and finally descended down a nicely paved, gentle slope into the parking lot of the preserve. A clean “Porta-potty” is available too; how convenient! After locking up my car I entered the marshland, observing a path going right and one straight ahead. I chose the path straight ahead to begin my walk and proceeded to a sign with colorful illustrations and maps highlighting the points of interest of the area. Next, I came upon a small shack; a bird blind! Later I learned that in 2001, employees of Acacia winery constructed the bird blind using recycled lumber. It sits right next to the tall grasses, taller than the windows of the shack. The shack is camouflaged with reeds for hushed birders who, as devoted voyeurs, peer through the grasses to witness intimate scenes of Nature. As I continued around a bend I discovered that my path was part of a large loop, connecting with the other path I had noted back at the start. This was a comfort to me because although I intended to be adventurous, I didn’t want to wander off into the tule and maybe step into the wrong place. You know, like quick sand or some prehistoric pit. Obviously a vivid imagination can be both a blessing and a curse.

Taming my mental gremlins I allowed the warmth of the sun to relax me and the 360° panorama of Carneros splendor to soften my eyes. To the north the vineyards roll back to the Mayacamas mountain range. To the east are the Napa hills beyond the Napa River. Looking south and west I took in the expansive view extending to the San Pablo Bay and Mt. Tamalpais; and not another person in sight. This was an opportunity for solitude and discovery. I wanted to soak up all the beauty, quiet and calm, and breathe in the odors of fish, mud, or grass; whichever scent happened to drift past my nose.

I’ve talked about how void of Man this area can feel but there are all sorts of evidence of “modern” activity through the last two centuries. Out in the middle of the marshland sits a solitary, two-story, concrete building. Could this be the station that had piqued my curiosity? It seemed too far off the road. Another path showed the way to this building, so I bravely investigated.

What remains are plain concrete walls, a dilapidated roof, broken window frames without glass, and ragged, open doorways on each end. Everything about the building is disintegrating, with piles of rubble inside. Not inviting to walk through and being prudent, I circumnavigated it, looking for any signs of identification. Who would come all the way out here to this building. When, and what would they be doing? Indeed, very mysterious. I contemplated the possibilities as I strolled back to my car. My time out in the marshes had cleared my head and given me new, fascinating things to think about. Back home I searched the internet for all things Carneros. For example, the old railway I crossed at the entrance was built in the late 1800’s to transport fruit, milk, grain and cattle to San Francisco. I had mistakenly considered the Carneros to be distant and somewhat disconnected from the activities in the valley but, now I understand its bond with the heart of Napa’s history, connecting people and industry while continuing to evolve in our changing culture and environment. An excellent resource for the history of the Carneros region can be found at the Carneros Wine Alliance’s website: www.carneros.com. And, about that ramshackle building? It took some digging but for a brief explanation take a look at: http://wikimapia.org/3449592/Abandoned_Press_Wirecast_building.

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History Article – December 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine History Article December 2007.

Counting Cars
By Lauren Coodley

Napan Judy Lloyd wrote me a letter in response to my October Marketplace article. Her experience forms the basis for this essay. Lloyd writes:

I was born and raised in Napa, as was my mother, whose maiden name was Bergantini. The Bergantinis came to Napa from Genoa, Italy, and lived in the Italian community in Alta Heights district. In fact, I live in the house my mother grew up in, on Silverado Trail between Berna and Spring streets. When I first moved here twenty years ago I had a great view of the Napa Garbage company – as well as a great stench carried on the evening breezes.

What was once a quiet country road is now a traffic-packed highway. My mother used to sit on the front porch and count cars; she tells me maybe five or six would go by. When my youngest son was a toddler, we continued the tradition of counting cars – and 60 or more vehicles would pass by during our short time on the porch. My mother loves to tell stories about growing up on the Trail. Her grandmother lived just north of Spring, on the Trail, and my mother would run across the field to visit her. We never got tired of hearing about all the Italian families like the Grimoldis, Bacigalupis, Rossis, and Paniaguas, whose children grew up with her in Alta Heights.

Your article hit home for me as my husband and I contemplate what will happen when the new proposed Ritz Carlton goes up. I feel like that little house in Virginia Lee Burton’s children’s book, The Little House. Businesses will eventually be surrounding us and the traffic will be horrendous. Of course, as a union electrician, my husband loves the growth, which creates more work.

Now regarding Pear Tree Lane, I can’t help but reminisce every time I drive by the new development. I grew up just east of Beard Road, and my girlfriends and I would ride our bikes down Pear Tree Lane almost every day. It was a dirt road ending in a dead end where the orchard was. We picked pears and played in the orchard. As a young teen I would go down there to sneak a smoke – something I am glad I never continued past the experimental period. There was also a creek that ran south of Pear Tree where we would swing on willow tree branches. What lovely memories I have, memories I love to share.

A few years ago I began to hate Napa. I was discouraged that I would never be able to afford to purchase a home in the town I was born and raised. I was tired of sharing the roads with tourists who didn’t know where they were going. I despised the little expensive shops that were built solely to attract such tourists. Who cares about all that wine stuff anyway? Then a miracle happened.

I was hired to work at Stags’ Leap Winery. How did I not know this amazing property even existed. Gazing across vineyards green with the new spring, I drove through the small gate and into heaven. It was then I thought I was home. I fell in love with Stags’ Leap; its people, the property, the haunted Manor House and quaint old cottages; the wine. Oh yes, now I get the whole wine thing, but most of all I fell in love with the Napa Valley.

Looking online, I found the following history of Stags’ Leap:

Just seven miles north of Napa, in a valley within a valley, lies the century-old, 240-acre wine estate known as Stags’ Leap. Little has changed here since 1893, the year the winery was founded by Horace Chase and his wife Minnie Mizner Chase, the daughter of a prominent San Franciscan who was a U.S. Senator and Ambassador to Central America.

The property was named “Stags’ Leap” after an old Indian legend of a stag leaping across crags of the palisades (bordering the east side of the estate) to escape hunters. In addition to the old stone winery, the Chases built a gracious manor and guest house that still stand, excavated the first wine storage caves on the east side of Napa Valley and installed what is thought to be the first in-ground fresh water swimming pool in Northern California. Stags’ Leap became a center of social life, attracting the era’s most prominent politicians, artists and writers. Friends making a journey from San Francisco crossed the Bay by ferry to Vallejo, boarded a train to Yountville, and made the last leg of their journey to Stags’ Leap in horse-drawn carriages.

Perhaps it is the power of the land itself; perhaps only providence. For whatever reason, those who have owned the Stags’ Leap estate have taken it upon themselves to be stewards, committed to maintaining the rich natural heritage of this charmed valley. Most remarkable among these individuals was Mrs. Frances Grange, who acquired Stags’Leap from Horace Chase in 1913. She carefully transformed the property into a working ranch and the Napa Valley’s preeminent resort. Stags’ Leap soon became a refuge for San Franciscans escaping the cold July fog, and by film stars dogged by press and fans. By day they sequestered themselves in the good care of Mrs. Grange and her staff; lounging, hiking and splashing in one of the state’s first “swimming tanks.”

Twenty years ago, I cut out an article by novelist Anne Tyler about The Little House mentioned by Lloyd:

Like a child, the Little House has its periods of restlessness. And like a child, it finds even longed-for changes both exciting and saddening. Alone at night in the city that has always seemed to beckon, “she missed the field of daisies and the apple trees dancing in the moonlight.”

When I see those words now (and when I hear them, murmuring across the decades in my mother’s voice), I recall the feeling of elderly sorrow that came over me at age 4. At age 4, listening to The Little House, I had a sudden spell of… wisdom, I guess you could say. It seemed I’d been presented with a snapshot that showed me how the world worked: how the years flowed by and people altered and nothing could ever stay the same. Then the snapshot was taken away. Everything there is to know about time was revealed in that snapshot, and I can almost name it. I very nearly have it in my grasp… but then it’s gone again, and all that’s left is a ragged green book with the binding fallen apart.

Judy Lloyd finished her letter to me with this:

Next year, I turn 50. I still can’t afford a house but that’s okay for now. I will continue to live in the family home on the Trail where I will sit on the porch and count the cars. I will follow behind the tipsy tourists on my way home from work and pray for their safe trip home. I will continue to enjoy the fruits of our labor here at the winery, the history, and ghost stories. I will continue to remember Pear Tree Lane and the little grimy girls who played in the orchard.

Sources:
www.stagsleapwinery.com/history/index
Anne Tyler, New York Times, “Why I Still Treasure The Little House,” November 9, 1986.

Correspondence from Judy Lloyd to Lauren Coodley, October 2007.

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