Restaurant Review July 2008

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review July 2008

California Pizza
The Place you remember from high school
By Dorothy and John Salmon

On one recent warm summer night, we made a dinner run to California Pizza at 2410 Jefferson Street (across from Napa High). While we waited for our takeout pizza, we chatted with Tom Kenny, co-owner with his wife Kathleen. California Pizza is easy to spot on Jefferson. Just look for the big yellow sun on the front. Tom and his wife Kathleen have owned and operated California Pizza for four years. They are a great example of friendly Napans who work hard, have an adorable family and understand the importance of giving back to the community. They also make killer pizzas that are not expensive, are sold from a “down home” pizza place that is not fancy, but is shrouded by love and attention. Tom is proud to make pizza “that runs down your arm” and is packed with meat, if that’s what you like. Tom throws his own dough like a pro. When you see him sling and flop pizza dough like a TV cooking show host, you would think he has been doing it for more than four years.

California Pizza is well known to students at Napa High School. It’s their favorite hangout during school breaks. You can be assured that you will get great pizza throughout the day until closing time at 9:00 PM. If you want pizza for lunch when school is in session, you might consider waiting for lunch after 1:00 PM because before that, the lines are long with kids waiting for THEIR pizza. Since Tom and Kathleen are easygoing parents themselves, kids and families like to hang out with them in the evenings for dinner pizza. The Kenny’s are great with kids. They are firm but friendly. If you want to relive what it was like when you hung out for pizza in high school, hang out at California Pizza and do the flash-back.

California Pizza is family friendly with great prices. They take Visa and MasterCard and you can call them at: (707) 252-3636 and order your pizza to go and pick it up on your way home. They are open 7 days a week and prefer cash, but will take checks if they are local. Their hours are Sunday to Wednesday 10:30 AM to 9:00 PM. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday they stay open from 10:30 AM to 10:00 PM for those late night pizza cravings.

Their motto is “Nuthin’Fancy… Just Good Stuff” Their e-mail address is: www.califpizza@sbcglobal.net

Put your favorite topping on … Here’s your list of toppings to choose from for your pizza: Pepperoni, Canadian bacon, salami, Italian sausage, chicken, real bacon, red onions, mushrooms, black olives, jalapenos, green peppers, pinto beans, fresh tomatoes, green onions, chopped garlic and Ranch dressing. You can choose a thick crust, with extra sauce if you like, for a minimal charge. Like most pizza places, they serve small, medium, large, extra large, and XX large pizzas for those with a LOT of friends. We chose a half, all meat pizza and half, Hot and Saucy pizza. It was great, fresh, hot and delicious. We walked out of California Pizza for $15, which was the best dinner bargain we have had in a long time! Their special pizzas are: Hawaiian, Vegetarian, Deluxe, All Meat, Azteca with jalapenos and extra cheese, California, Combination, Italian, Hot and Sweet, and Garlic Chicken.

Tom and Kathleen serve garlic strips and Buffalo wings too, and their dessert specialty is “Sugar Pie” made with brown and white sugar on pizza dough with cinnamon, ginger and butter. A BIG favorite with little kids.

Speaking of kids, Tom points proudly to the homemade sign from St. John’s First Grade class thanking him for helping them with their fundraising. Rather than give the First Grade class free pizza, he let them come into the store and make their own individual pizzas! As the saying goes, it’s “better to teach them how to fish than to just give them one!” The walls of the pizza place proudly show off Tom and Kathleen’s daughter’s first pair of small loafers and plenty of kid’s photos, making it very homey. Tom Kenny is an amateur magician who loves to show kids his hidden coin trick and entertain your whole family. Next time you are looking for delicious, affordable no frills pizza, try California Pizza on Jefferson.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review June 2008

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review June 2008

Ristorante La Strada
American Canyon’s Best Kept Secret!
By Dorothy and John Salmon

We are writing this while we are in Dingle, Ireland. More on that later. Back in Napa, we have passed La Strada Restaurant on Hwy 29 hundreds of times, each time wondering what the restaurant is like. As you travel into or out of Napa or American Canyon next time, DON’T pass it by. Pull off the road and try lunch or dinner any day of the week.

La Strada is a family Italian restaurant featuring Tuscan style food that is plentiful and tasty. La Strada is PERFECT for those big parties, large meetings or family get-togethers. It has a lovely Italian ambiance, is affordable, easy to find and has lots of parking.

No surprise to our readers, we had a great time at La Strada with their staff. We were greeted by Mark, our friendly waiter, who cheerfully told us stories about his 12 years working for the family that owns La Strada. While we were talking with Mark, soft Italian music played in the background and made us feel like we were back in time. He brought us some of the best bread (baked daily at the restaurant) with a tasty oil dip dressed with garlic that was hard to stop eating. The chef, Jose Rosales, another long time employee, joined us for a bit and shared some of his secrets on cooking great Tuscan food.

We started out with a nice Gabiano Classico Chianti from Tuscany. Here is a tip if you are a commuter on Hwy. 29 and need to stop for a rest along the way. La Strada has Happy Hour Monday through Friday from 4 to 6 p.m. So if traffic is backed up, call home, tell them you’ll be late (or come and meet you for dinner) and stop and relax at La Strada. In all events, please be responsible, since you will be getting back on the road!

Once in the restaurant, you can imagine you are in Tuscany as you relax with the lovely Tuscan murals while dining with white linen table cloths and napkins. Bring the kids to La Strada too. They will halve the orders in price and amount and the kids will love the Italian pasta selections.

La Strada is a favorite spot for many of Napa County’s governmental organizations and local nonprofits that choose to have their dinner or luncheon meetings there. LaStrada’s large dining room is perfect for big meetings and is also conducive to friendly conversation. La Strada is also great for rehearsal dinners, wedding dinners, big birthday parties at reasonable prices.

We enjoyed lunch at LaStrada before leaving for Europe. In addition to the Chianti, LaStrada’s wine list includes local wines make by Italians such as Coppola, Mondavi, Personnel and Sebastiani. Most wines are in the $20 range, including the imported ones. Dorothy had the shrimp salad and John the pastina soup, which he thought was great. (The recipe is included in this review). The pastina soup tastes a bit like minestrone without the vegetables. John enjoyed the excellent veal marsala ($14) and Dorothy kept on the fish side with Gamberi al Timo, prawns and scallops with mushrooms, thyme sauce ($16). For dessert, we ordered the tartuflo which was nice, but a very heavy chocolate dessert. John had spumoni which was superlative and comes from Berkeley Farms.

Don’t be fooled by the location, the food is really good! Go to their web site at: www.lastradanostra.com. Our total bill, including wine, was $75.

La Strada is located at 6240 Napa Vallejo Highway in American Canyon. They can be reached by calling (707) 226-3027.

Back to Dingle. Here are two great recommendations if you are lucky enough to visit the Dingle Peninsula on the western coast of Ireland. Stay with Inn Keeper Marian at the Emlagh House www.emlaghhouse.com and enjoy dinner at Jim McCarthy’s Chart House www.bestofbridgestone.com/listman/listings/l0231.html. Our wine waiter Gwenael was so much fun we went back two nights in a row. The chef, Noel Enright, is amazing. The food is fabulous and the ambiance is lovely.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – May 2008

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review May 2008

Celedon
By Dorothy and John Salmon

We love Celadon and feel like we are “coming home” when we walk in the door. For this experience, we were joined by Lauren and Alex Ackerman, two of our favorite dinner companions. Alex is 12 years old and already an experienced and savvy food critic. Lucky for us, we were greeted at the door by the warm and lovely Judi, one of our favorite folks in Napa. Judi was Chef Greg Cole’s first employee and has been with him for twelve years. Her infectious smile, warmth and charm make Celadon sparkle. Anne, our server and Carlos, our buser, were polished, knowledgeable and friendly.

According to Alex, Celadon is one of his favorite places EVER. We agree. Celadon is best described as “Napa Casual Elegant” with an interesting mix of locals and visitors who enjoy the unique vintage poster collection, great food, wonderful brickwork and historic charm of downtown Napa in the Napa Mill Project at 5th and Main.

Celadon’s cuisine is “Global Comfort Food.” It is award winning and served in a beautiful dining room or in the lovely outdoor courtyard. The seasonally influenced menu features flavors from the Mediterranean, Asia and the Americas. Celadon serves lunch and dinner and reservations are recommended by calling (707) 254-9690 or using www.opentable.com. The San Francisco Chronicle boasts that Celadon is “a wonderful combination of laid-back and glamorous.” Zagat gives them an “Award of Distinction.” Wine Spectator gives them an “Award of Excellence” and proclaims that they were “one of the 10 great places to dine at the bar.” We give Celadon an award for helping to change the face of dining in Downtown Napa and consistently keeping us well fed since they opened!

Chef Greg Cole not only owns Celadon, but also Cole’s Chop House just up Main Street from Celadon. Greg is not only a great chef. He is a community visionary who took a risk twelve years ago, betting that downtown Napa could become vibrant and exciting. HE made it happen by opening Celadon in a small space next to the Opera House and helped to pave the way for what is now a collection of wonderful restaurants in downtown Napa. He is known locally as the “go to guy” for the community, a great husband and father, and in his “spare time” he hosts his own radio show on KVON 1440 AM on Tuesday mornings from 9 to 10 AM.

We have known Greg for 12 years and have watched him create and operate great restaurants through good times and tough times without a blip. He is a true entrepreneur and Napa hero.

While Greg is busy going back and forth on Main Street to either restaurant, Marcos Uribe shines as his Chef de Cuisine at Celadon. His menu is eclectic and delicious. According to Alex, “Everyone should come here!”

In addition to the great wine list Celadon has a full bar and some exotic drinks. If you are up to it, try an old mill martini made with Square On rye vodka, King Eider vermouth served with a blue cheese stuffed olive for $10. We skipped the cool bar drinks, went right to the wine list and ordered a bottle of 2006 Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc for $29. Served with a fabulous small table size baguette of sliced Acme bread. We started dinner with our very favorite flash fried calamari with a spicy chipotle chili glaze and pickled ginger for only $13. You won’t find better calamari. The recipe is included with this review!

For starters, Alex had the Maine crab cake with frisee and mache salad and Meyer lemon aioli for $13. Lauren ordered the special grilled asparagus salad with cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and mixed greens drizzled with tomato vinaigrette for $13. John ordered the hearts of romaine salad with Caesar dressing, croutons and parmesan cheese for $9, and I enjoyed the sweet coconut friend prawns with mango, cucumber and greens, with sesame-citrus vinaigrette for $14.

For dinner, Alex ordered the endive and pear salad with blue cheese, candied walnuts and honey mustard vinaigrette. Alex claims the candied walnuts are “the best in the world and should be sold in elementary and middle schools as a snack.” All this for $11! Alex also ordered the macadamia nut crusted goat cheese with port-poached figs, apples and crostini for $11. Lauren ordered the special lamb dinner that was out of this world for $25. John ordered the special pasta with rock shrimp, which he said was incredible for $23, and I ordered the Tagarashi crusted ahi that was delicious for $27.

Since we are restaurant reviewers, we didn’t want to be accused of slipping up on the job, so we forced ourselves to order dessert. If we didn’t, we thought “what kind of restaurant reviewers would we be? We ordered the chocolate brownie that looks incredible and tastes 50 times better than it looks. We fought over that one. We also ordered Celadon’s famous gingerbread with huckleberry sauce and gelato, and the apple blackberry crisp with the oatmeal topping and vanilla bean gelato. All of these “to die for” desserts are around $9. Feel free to bring the kids with you to Celadon. They have a handy Kids Menu with plenty of healthy great tasting kid attractions for $7.50.

Celadon is FABULOUS! Now that the River Walk is open, you can spend an afternoon or an evening enjoying the best of the city of Napa’s renaissance.

Celadon
500 Main Street, Suite G
Napa, CA 94559

tel (707) 254-9690
fax (707) 254-9692

Open Daily
Lunch 11:30-2:30 Mon-Fri
Afternoon Menu 2:30-5:00 Mon-Fri
Dinner 5:00-9:00 Sun-Thurs
Fri and Sat ‘til 10:00

Flash Fried Calamari with a Spicy Chipotle Chili Glaze and Pickled Ginger

Chipotle Chili Glaze
1-7 ounce can chipotle chilies in adobo sauce
1 LB orange blossom honey
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
Combine the above ingredients in a blender and process until smooth.

2 LB fresh squid, cut into rings
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
salt and pepper
peanut oil for deep frying
1/2 cup pickled ginger
1/4 cup chopped chives

-Heat oil to 375°F.
-Season the calamari rings with salt and pepper.
-Toss the squid in the flour to coat evenly, shake off excess.
-Deep fry until golden brown, about two minutes.
-Drain the squid and combine in a bowl with one cup of
chili glaze, sliced pickled ginger and chives.
-Arrange on a platter or on plates with reserved glaze
for dipping.
-Makes six to eight appetizer portions.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – April 2008

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review April 2008

ZinsValley Restaurant
By Dorothy and John Salmon

Dorothy and John enjoyed a lovely evening at ZinsValley Restaurant in the Browns Valley Shopping Center (3253 Browns Valley Road, Napa) where you will find a down-home country atmosphere and great food at reasonable prices. The menu proclaims “We can’t wait to feed you” and justifiably declares that “innovative American Cuisine” is served. It’s easy to find, just 1.5 miles west of Hwy. 29 from the First Street exit. As you travel down First Street toward Westwood Hills Park and Connolly Ranch, First Street becomes Browns Valley Road, where you enter a warm and friendly neighborhood that has gone from real country living to a comfortable blend of new homes mixed with a country ambiance.

ZinsValley Restaurant is situated in a charming red brick building in the Center and is the best of “neighborhood restaurants,” with no parking problems. Owners Greg and Teresa Johnson have been perfecting their robust food menu since 2000. Greg bakes his own bread each day. It’s wonderful and clearly shows the attention of being homemade. The delightful staff at ZinsValley greets customers with a smile and waiter Jason, hostess Jennifer and buser Sheri all made us feel very much at home.

ZinsValley seats 60 people in the main dining room and another 40 in the smaller adjoining room. When the weather is warm, 60 more diners can enjoy the outdoor patio area. Sitting outside at ZinsValley in the spring and summer is nothing short of magical. It’s like being in Yosemite, just minutes from downtown Napa.

Typically, you would not think you would be offered wild boar soup at a neighborhood restaurant, but that’s the kind of unique offering you will find at ZinsValley along with “to-die-for” calamari and just about the best Caesar salad dressing in Napa. You may choose vegetarian dishes like coconut yellow curry with baby bok choy, yams, shiitake mushrooms, snow peas and jasmine rice or their “polenta sheets” lasagna filled with baby spinach and cheese.

With their full bar, Dorothy experimented and enjoyed a wonderful Mandarin Orange Cosmopolitan, while John stayed with his more traditional scotch on the rocks with a twist. Dorothy had the zinfandel braised lamb shank, Yukon gold–parsnip whipped potatoes and great baby carrots. John delighted in swordfish with garlic mashed potatoes and perfect broccoli. Since ZinsValley is famous for their very well-put-together wine list with a special touch for zinfandels we ordered a bottle of Peachy Canyon Zinfandel. Most dinners are priced between $14.00 and $24.00 and the wine list is fabulous.

On this night, we also enjoyed dessert in honor of our pal St. Patrick. We HAD to order the pistachio-crusted Bailey’s Irish Cream cheesecake with Guinness syrup because it was so close to March 17. Okay, maybe that is not a great excuse, but it sounded good enough and the dessert was terrific.

We are including the recipe for ZinsValley’s wild mushroom bruschetta with white truffle bean puree and tawny port reduction since, according to Chef Greg, it is harder to say than it is to make!
So, next time you are driving on Highway 29 and you approach First Street, turn west and head to Browns Valley’s best kept secret, ZinsValley Restaurant, and have a fabulous, affordable, hearty meal with family and friends. Don’t forget to bring the kids!

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – March 2008

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review March 2008

Angele
By Dorothy and John Salmon

Connie Anderson, the Publisher of the Napa Marketplace, is one smart lady. When she needed someone to write restaurant reviews, who did she contact? She contacted us, two folks who eat out too much and could stand to miss a meal now and then. Well, here we go with our first column. We begin our new career at one of our many favorites in Napa, “Angele”.

We are on a first name basis with the staff at Angele. It seems like it’s our home away from home, or at least the kitchen and dining room. As we enter the place, we are greeted with smiles and “Hi Auntie Dorothy and Uncle John”.

We know the menu by heart and have our favorites. This night, however, we experience the creations of Angele’s exciting new chef, Aaron Ameneghelli who is gradually adding his own unique style to the existing menu items and creating some new additions to this already great menu.

Every evening at Angele is an exciting local adventure and this night was no exception! We brought our dear friend Dave Mendelsohn with us because his wife Donna was out of town. We enjoy Angele’s upbeat, classy atmosphere full of friendly locals and visitors blended perfectly with great food. We walked in the door and were greeted by Angele’s owner Bettina Rouas and Manager Aaron with the same great smiles and wonderful service to which we have become so accustomed.

We began with a half bottle of Dr. Loosen’s Riesling, a lovely light German wine that went perfectly with our plate of the chef’s special “grugeres,” the best rendition of cheese balls in the world! (Chef Ameneghelli’s recipe for Grugeres is at the bottom of this article). When customers arrive at Angele they are treated to what we consider the best French bread in Napa served by a very friendly staff of knowledgeable foodies.

Before our main course, Dave ordered the Artisan Salami’s Serrano Ham, Country Pate and Country Toast. It’s a traditional French opening to a great dinner. Dave ordered the Rib Eye Steak which he said was amazing, John ordered the Boeuf Bourguignon, which was fabulous, and I ordered the Coquille St. Jaques, which I think is the best rendition of Coquille St. Jaques in town. Even though we have enjoyed the French food at Angele often, Chef Ameneghelli’s new additions to the menu made the food taste better than ever. (Lunch at Angele is also fabulous and gives guests an opportunity to see the ever-changing flood control project up close and personal!)

We give Angele rave reviews and encourage you to take time to enjoy the relaxing and lovely French ambiance, great food and a superb wine list.

Here’s a tip from the locals who know that Kari, the bartender at Angele, is on the top of the list for prize winning mixed drinks and exotic libations. If you are lucky enough to have Tana serve you after Angele’s tireless owner Bettina greets you at the door, you will be in for a wonderful evening.

Angele has fabulous food, a wonderful blend of locals and visitors, and is high on our list of local places to spend an evening. Try it and tell them that Auntie Dorothy and Uncle John recommended the restaurant!

Angele – 707-252-8115
Hatt Building at the Napa River Inn
540 Main Street, Napa

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – February 2008

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review February 2008

Bleaux Magnolia

By “The Elusive Epicurean”

I have a French surname, and because of this, people have assumed many things: that I speak French (I don’t), that I cook (not so much), and that I must ever be chic (er, no). Sadly, I must report that my ancestors crossed the Atlantic centuries ago. Whatever innate sartorial or culinary talents they possessed have clearly been frittered away throughout the generations. I am as un-French as anyone.

Sometimes, though, I am haunted by the Might Have Been. The culinary legacy of my grannie with the oh-so French name was this: dinner upon dinner of chopped hot dogs, cottage cheese mounds, and experimental microwave cookery. But, what might have been? What if my ancestors had hoofed it all the way to Louisiana instead of plopping down in Kankakee? Would I have been raised on tasty cuisine? I can only dream.

After eating dinner at Bleaux Magnolia, dream I do. I had already eaten much of their lunch menu, mostly as takeaway and all delicious. My favorite is the pulled pork sandwich ($10). The pork is deliciously tender; cooked in a pomegranate-molasses-rum barbeque sauce, then served with a persimmon macadamia slaw on a soft roll. And, I can never order lunch without getting the “Voodoo Sweet Potato Steak Fries”, served with a chipotle aioli ($5). Yum!

Delicious as their lunch goodies are, I was unprepared for the exceptional dinner that Bleaux Magnolia turned out. If you haven’t yet eaten at this little jewel of a restaurant in downtown Napa, you’ve been missing out.

Happily, Bleaux Magnolia’s tasting menus are a great way to sample this take on Creole fare. Both three- and five-course tasting menus are offered. We decided on the three-course, with wine pairing, at $48 per person ($33 without wine). Prices throughout are for ala carte items. And, while we’re talking fine print here, you will appreciate this: there is no corkage. Yes, that’s right. No corkage. Ever.

My companion, Miss Guinness, began with the butter leaf salad with roasted red and golden beets, candied macadamia nuts, rye croutons and a gorgonzola cheese dressing ($9). I chose the crab cakes, which were served with mango aioli and a persimmon-jicama-macadamia nut slaw ($13). Both were delicious. The gorgonzola dressing had a pleasing, subtle kick, and the crab cakes tasted fresh and homemade.

Miss Guinness is a vegetarian (her only failing) and, although specific vegetarian items aren’t listed on the menu, Bleaux Magnolia will happily prepare something special. Miss Guinness is always thrilled when she doesn’t have to stick to the requisite salad or pasta option, and Bleaux Magnolia didn’t disappoint. Her roasted vegetable gratin with trumpet mushrooms was so flavorful and satiating that even the most rabid carnivore would have been happy to go meat-free.

My first choice, the Niman Ranch pork osso bucco ($23), had sold out, so I ordered the cornbread-crusted catfish ($19). In the end I was grateful I’d ordered something I normally wouldn’t. This wasn’t some bland steamed fish that would get me a gold star from my trainer. Served with sautéed spinach, black-eyed peas, pork jowl, caramelized onions and a huckleberry sauce, this fish was decadently rich and delicious. I will order it again and again.

The grand finale was the bananas Foster. What can I say? It’s heavenly. And, the food pyramid does say to eat your fruit. Order two. Per person.

Bleaux Magnolia is located in downtown Napa at 1408 Clay Street. Tuesdays through Saturdays, lunch is served 11:30 to 2:30 and dinner 5 to 9. On Sundays, brunch is served 11 to 3 and dinner 5 to 9. Closed Mondays. For more information, call (707) 252-2230 or check out www.bleauxmagnolia.com.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – January 2008

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review January 2008

Napa Valley Grille
By “The Elusive Epicurean”

I, like many Americans, am an Olympic Champion of armchair living. You know what I’m talking about. Is there anything better than sipping a nice Chardonnay, lounging in bed, and watching someone else exercise on TV? Or reading yet one more issue of Martha Stewart Living with absolutely no intention of macraméing your very own cell phone cozy?

I’m not judging you. I understand. The chill of winter inspires me to do little more than cower beneath my heating blanket, watch bad reality TV and dine on microwave popcorn. It was only through the terror of a crowbar wielding editor that I was motivated to trudge the few miles to Yountville to research this column. The trek was well worth it. Warm and inviting, the Napa Valley Grille has a menu chock full of tempting dishes, many making use of local, seasonal ingredients.

So if you’re reading this review to live vicariously through my culinary experience, I must protest. Turn off Top Chef, put the Stouffer’s back in the freezer, and go get yourself some real food. My words will not do justice to what your taste buds could be experiencing this very moment.

We began with the Hot Crab Fondue ($14.75), which, though delicious, bears little resemblance to fondue. Served with a house made herbed focaccia, the fondue is more a warm pot of parmesan, crab, artichoke and red onion that you can dip, scoop, or spread on your bread (you decide). Think cheesy, gooey goodness with lots and lots of crab. I’m not complaining. I could have made an entrée of it, but unfortunately I had to share.

After the fondue, we had the “Harvest Platter” (insert drum roll, please): air cured beef, coppa ham, pork rillette, prosciutto di parma, salmon tartare, marinated olives, caper berries, apples, crème fraîche, dried figs, raisins, honeycomb, and local artisan cheeses. And yes, I had to steal a menu to recount all of that.

A sucker for anything duck, I couldn’t resist the Crispy Duck Breast with harvest bread pudding, scalloped potatoes and a rich maple demi-glaze ($26.50). The savory bread pudding and sweet demi-glaze complemented the meat and I reluctantly gave samples away to my dining companions. Fortunately, they reciprocated.

Colonel Mustard ordered the American Kobe Tri-tip with sautéed chanterelle mushrooms, bacon, brandy foie gras butter, and sauce bordelaise ($25.75). Miss Scarlet opted for the Boneless Pork Loin ($25.25), which had made it on my short list. Served with sweet potato fritter, classic collard greens, and a whole grain mustard buerre blanc, I could be easily tempted away from the duck on my next visit. The pork loin was one of many selections available from the Napa Valley Grille’s wood burning grill.

Professor Plum, a predictable meat-n-potatoes kind of guy, chose another item from the grill: the Mustard & Herb Crusted New York Steak with watercress salad, house French fries and pink peppercorn jus ($29.25). Predictable though the Professor may be, he does know his stuff, and deemed everything “excellent”.

If I still haven’t seduced you away from the microwave popcorn, try to resist Thursday’s “Slider Night”, where a Kobe Slider and a beer are all of 5 bucks. If brew’s not your thing, don’t despair. Signature Cocktails are 5 bucks each, too. I won’t be cowering under the heating blanket on Thursdays, I assure you.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – December 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review December 2007

Cook St. Helena
By “The Elusive Epicurean”

Not a holiday goes by that some relative doesn’t remark upon my love of cooking, and come to the inevitable conclusion that I should pursue a career as a professional chef.

I find this uproariously funny. For one, having lived with a slew of career foodies, and read my share of voyeuristic kitchen non-fiction (reference one Anthony Bourdain), I know this: Being a professional cook is hard work. This knowledge always leaves me looking at Aunt Bessie or Uncle Howard and thinking, “Are you daft?”

Further, Aunt Bessie and Uncle Howard have got it all wrong. I do not love cooking. I love eating. If the universe saw fit to give me a personal chef, I would not miss sautéing, mincing, or puréeing. But, since this person has yet to arrive, a demanding palate (and even more demanding budget) dictates that I cook. As chores go, cooking’s not so bad. It ranks far above ironing. And, I cook.

Thus, therefore, when I have a stunning meal, prepared by someone else, I am so very appreciative. Cook St. Helena always leaves me very, very appreciative. If you have not yet eaten there, go. If you have, but just happen to be hungry, go. If you think you might possibly be hungry at some point one day in the near or distant future, then schedule it. I command you.

Cook St. Helena’s small storefront on Main Street is easy to miss, so keep your eyes out for diners pacing the sidewalk waiting for a seat at what is clearly a local favorite. Enthusiastic greetings ping-pong around the room whenever a regular shows up, which is often.

It’s easy to see why Cook, is popular, (with its cozy, friendly French bistro feel). Wine bottles line the walls, and a marble-topped bar gives a diner-gone-luxe vibe while at the same time welcoming solo diners or those who want a sneak peek into the petite kitchen.

My companion, who shall be called Miss Guinness, began with the beet salad, composed of red and yellow beets, mache, ricotta salata and sherry vinegar ($9). Very simple, and very good. The soup was cream of tomato ($8), which I ordered without the least trepidation. I was in good hands: I was not reminded of that red and white can. The prospect of a daily dose of Cook’s soup had me momentarily considering relocation. It was that good.

Next, I chose the braised short ribs ($23), served with scallion whipped potatoes. Tender and flavorful, the ribs were the perfect winter comfort food. Cook’s pastas are all housemade. Miss Guinness could not resist the Handmade Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Cream ($16), also available with either marinara or sage brown butter. There was some debate over the sauce, but in the end she went with the gorgonzola cream, which, happily, was neither overwhelming nor heavy. The gnocchi themselves were light, not leaden, and I eagerly cleaned Miss Guinness’ plate after I finished everything on mine. But, not to worry, I still had room for a lovely Panne Cotta.

So, Dear Reader, if after all the tinseling and bedecking of this festive season, you dread the very thought of rummaging through your fridge, there is an answer: Cook St. Helena. Visions of sugar plums will dance in your head.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – November 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review November 2007

Hurley’s
By “The Elusive Epicurean”

I am a shameless carnivore. I have plucked feathers and chopped heads. I will eat the meat of cute, fuzzy creatures without the least remorse. I adore foie gras. Lest you think me completely unfeeling, I will inform you that I do have a vegetarian friend. I think this very open-minded of me. So when my editor invited me to “Wild Game Week,” it will come as no surprise that I got excited.

“Wild Game Week” is an annual event at Hurley’s Restaurant & Bar in Yountville, and features exotic meats such as caribou and ostrich. If you didn’t make it this year, put it on your calendar for 2008. It is not to be missed.

My companion, Madame X, fit the profile of the dining companion I required for the evening: eats meat plus a witty conversationalist. Also, she was available on short notice.

Foolishly, we did not secure a reservation in advance. I advise you not to repeat our mistake, but if you do, then follow our lead and console yourself with a festive cocktail at the bar.
Half a Jackie O and Pomatini later, we ordered up a plate of Squash Blossom Fritters ($10). The lightly crisped blossoms were filled with herbed goat cheese and accompanied by a roasted red pepper and tomato coulis. Yummy.

After some quality cocktail chatter, we were seated before the candlelit fireplace. Do file Hurley’s away as a nice date destination. Despite the fact that the dining room was at capacity, we felt surprisingly secluded at our little table. Our conversation quickly turned to Brangelina vs. Bennifer.

Memories of squash blossoms in our heads, we couldn’t resist a second appetizer course. It’s not as if anyone from the bar would see us, now would they? So we ordered the Belle River Crab Crakes ($12), and were rewarded for our decision. Served with a cucumber, tomato and red onion salad and a smoked paprika aioli, the crab cakes were all the things they should be, and none that they should not.

There was no discussion about the main course. We were there to eat wild game, and so we went for the wildest goods offered: Braised Wild Boar ($23) and Grilled Medallions of Cervena Venison ($29). Served with truffle-scented soft polenta, roasted seasonal vegetables, and crispy onion rings, the braised boar was fall-off-the-bone tender, and full of flavor. Earlier, I had spotted Wild Boar Sliders ($14) on the late night bar menu, and promptly put them on my To Do list.

The venison was served with a wild mushroom spaetzle, wilted Brussel sprout leaves, and huckleberry compote. This was a landmark dish because I have, until now, absolutely dreaded spaetzle. It helped, too, that the meat was succulent, flavorful and all-around delicious.

Before I started contemplating some backyard deer hunting, I learned that this particularly delicious venison derives its appellation “Cervena” from being naturally raised, without the use of steroids or hormones, by some folks in New Zealand. Oh, well.

I was stuffed. Madame X looked at me sheepishly, and I knew what she wanted: a side of the Macaroni & Cheese ($3.50). Madame X then proposed an article on the Valley’s finest mac n’ cheese. I thought this a splendid idea, and promised to look into it. Though as I shoveled the cheesy, gooey-with-a-touch-of-crisp goodness into my mouth, I wondered if Hurley’s hadn’t already taken the prize.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com

Restaurant Review – October 2007

Napa Valley Marketplace Magazine Restaurant Review October 2007

Lakeside Grill
By “The Elusive Epicurean”

When my associate suggested the Lakeside Grill in Yountville, I was flummoxed. Huh? Yountville is not a large town, and I was certain I had eaten in every single one of its restaurants. Twice. So where was this mysterious Grill she spoke of? Sensing my confusion, she enlightened me: the Lakeside Grill is at the Vintner’s Golf Club. Oh.

I am no golfer. As popular as the sport may be, it involves the acquisition of activity-specific gear, early wake up calls, and the spectre of physical exertion. No, I am no golfer. However, once seated on the terrace overlooking a sparkling lake (complete with fountain and lazing swans) and perusing the rolling greenery of the course, I found myself wondering if perhaps the golfers had the right idea. But then my mimosa called, and I regained my focus.

Fortunately, you needn’t flash your PGA card to gain access to the view. If dining is your sport, you’re invited to enjoy the Grill’s casual, unfussy food while basking in the sun and admiring the spectacle of green, green grass melting into tree dotted hills with nary a building in sight.

We began with appetizers, and if you’ve been reading this column for any period of time, it will come as no surprise that when a platter of fried goodness is offered, it must be eaten. In this case, there were two, beginning with the Spicy Fried Calamari ($10), which was tossed with jalapeno and cilantro and served with a spicy aioli. And then there was the hit of the day: the Fried Artichokes and Prawns, served with spicy aioli and Ranch dressing ($11.95). The troops really rallied behind this one. “Tell them we loved the artichokes and prawns! Tell them!” they cried as the mimosas egged them on.

But one cannot live on fried appetizers alone. For my main course, I chose the Grilled Albacore Tuna Sandwich ($10.95), which was served on focaccia with more of the spicy aioli, and when it arrived I regretted having stuffed myself silly on appetizers.

My troops—Privates R and K, respectively—also opted for sandwiches. Private R chose the Ultimate Grilled Steak Sandwich, also known as top sirloin served with sautéed mushrooms on a sweet roll ($11.50). Our waiter told Private R that she would be his hero if she finished the whole thing, but I must report that she left her cape at home. It was a very large sandwich.

Private K, meanwhile, went for the Cobb Sandwich ($10.50), which was loaded with roasted turkey, bacon, avocado, crumbled bleu cheese, and a lemon herb dressing. Private K deemed the sandwich “very good.” Unlike me, she opted for the French fries, which looked very tempting from my vantage point across the table. Perhaps I shouldn’t have gotten that side salad after all. The menu does boast that the fries are the best in the valley. I’ll let you be the judge.

Had our stomachs been any larger, we would have ordered something off the “South of the Border” portion of the menu. A little bird told me wonderful things about the tacos (steak, chicken or shrimp on soft corn tortillas, $3-3.50), so now I have a goal for my next visit.

The ambiance also makes the Lakeside Grill an excellent breakfast destination, if you can manage to rouse yourself before 11 am. On that miraculous day, I shall head up to the Grill and continue my quest for the perfect Eggs Benedict ($10.25). I am hopeful, for I already know that the mimosas are excellent. Wines by the glass start at $5.50.

http://www.napavalleymarketplace.com